Michelin-Star Chefs Bring Georgia to a New Level of Gastronomy

Cuisine, as it stands today, is the product of the generations which have preceded us. Each of those involved has added his or her brick to this great edifice of gastronomy. – said world renowned French Chef, Guy Savoy. Echoing this sentiment, the innovative vision of the Ambassador of France to Georgia, Pascual Meunier, and the General Manager of Radisson Blu Iveria, Tbilisi, Jordi Kuijt, has begun to strengthen the “edifice” of culinary artists in Georgia. April 25th saw two Michelin star French Chefs, Gilles Chesneau and Stephane Laruelle, of the Guy Savoy restaurants in Paris, visiting Tbilisi to give masterclasses and special guest dinners at Radisson Blu Iveria’s exclusive restaurant, ‘Andropov’s Ears.’

“We had a vision when we opened this restaurant to bring European gastronomy to Georgia and combine it with the best Georgian traditions,” Jordi Kuijt told GEORGIA TODAY. “There is a very rich Georgian food tradition which we wanted to show and develop, and we are ideally placed to do so with our Georgian chef, Irakli Todadze, trained by us to a level that can be Gault & Millau, and in future, perhaps Michelin.”

In collaboration with the French Embassy, Andropov’s Ears hosted a full day of masterclasses with 10 of the best known and upcoming Georgian chefs, aiming, as Kuijt told us, to “bring Georgia to a new culinary level.”

“We originally offered a masterclass for just four chefs, but demand was so high, we made space in the kitchen for 10,” Kuijt said. “It was a small, efficient kitchen, with all the chefs listening attentively to Gilles and Stephane- eager to learn. They truly made the most of the experience of having such high-level chefs in Georgia.”

“It was an honor to have two Michelin-star chefs here, because, in Georgia, few understand the concept and quality that Michelin entails,” he noted. “We hope to help change this.”

Ambassador Pascal Meunier knew Gilles from the Paris restaurant and, once he and Kuijt had a plan, they contacted Gilles and Stephane and, via conference calls, made all necessary preparations ahead of their special visit.

Stephane Lareulle, who has been working for Guy Savoy at Le Chiberta, l’Etoile, since 2007, in a rare moment’s break from the kitchen between courses, told us of the positive experience of being in Georgia. “There is amazing hospitality,” he said. “The country is very beautiful.”

We asked the two chefs about the masterclass and how they felt it had gone.

“I was very impressed with the competencies and adaptability of the Georgian chefs,” said the experienced chef-trainer, Gilles Chesneau, titled ‘Mobile Chef: Spiritual Defender of Guy Savoy.’ “And it came as something of a surprise- after all, our only experience of Georgia before this was by talking to the organizers here through conference calls.”

Gilles mentioned their eagerness on arriving to try the local cuisine, including the world-famous khachapuri. “Georgian food is something totally different- heavy on the herbs and salt, with plenty of fresh vegetables. Of course, we tried khachapuri, and ended with a drink or two of Chacha.”

The day after the masterclass, the two chefs, with their Georgian colleagues, prepared a three-course meal for local appreciators of fine dining. We asked how they had chosen which dishes to prepare.

“When we arrived, we had a careful look at the Andropov’s Ears menu,” Gilles said. “The first thing we were looking for was the focus of the restaurant; what we could bring to the table that would surprise. We chose to start with artichoke soup and black truffle. We saw that they had salmon on the menu and chose that as a main, with chocolate ice-cream in a light biscuit edging for dessert, topped by a chocolate coin ‘engraved’ with Guy Savoy’s logo.”

Georgian guests spoke of their pleasure and enthusiasm at being able to taste such cuisine in a high-class Tbilisi setting. The truffles especially impressed them. We found out from Kuijt that many of the ingredients, as standard, are brought into Georgia from Europe.

“We have two flights per week flying in fresh products for us- oysters from Britannia, lobsters, crab. When the shellfish arrive, they are still alive,” he said. “This is something unique to Tbilisi, and an investment for us. We checked out the fish markets in Dubai, Batumi, Istanbul and Italy. But the best quality and best delivery came from Rotterdam in The Netherlands. Once a week, our ingredients come on a direct flight with Air Zena, and once with Baltic Air, which includes a one-hour stop in Riga.”

“We chose to start our restaurant with a Georgian chef,” he added. “Irakli did great things for us in the Radisson Blu Hotel and now Andropov’s is his baby. Trained by European chefs, he’s changed the way he cooks. If he continues this way, within four years he could be the level of Michelin. Andropov’s Ears and any restaurant of this level needs to have so many things taken into consideration: food, service, menu; all the small details.”

“There are many great Georgian restaurants,” Radisson’s GM went on. “But in looking at the variety of upscale European style venues, we found a gap. In Andropov’s, we had the location, the décor [by French designers Gilles et Boissier] and a French kitchen, and we decided to take a risk and focus on seafood. Georgia is very much a meat-loving country and fish is decidedly missing, especially considering the growing number of businesses coming to Georgia and the increasing tourism; with the Georgians travelling more, experiencing and seeing more and becoming more receptive to novelties.”

With the abundance of Francophiles and lovers of fine dining now here in Tbilisi, and with city-dwellers being ever more exposed to the delights of European cuisine, thanks to the work and dedication of the Andropov’s Ears team and the French Embassy, the “edifice” of Georgian gastronomy is guaranteed to go from strength to strength in the coming years.

By Katie Ruth Davies