Last Bell Again: Becho, Svaneti

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Although I only co-taught English in Becho for 2 years, and ended that a year ago, I returned to my school there this month to witness the departures of grades 1 and 12.

The schoolyard is still the best I’ve seen in Svaneti, if not in all Georgia: huge, green and treed too; the spirit inside the building still flourishing.

First thing to happen was the ringing of the bell for the last time by all the grade 12s one after another in turn. Then we all filed into the waiting decorated classroom, festooned most amusingly with balloons which read “It’s a boy!”

The MCs at our event were two grade 1 boys, who took turns using the battery-powered microphone with its useful built-in speaker as if they were old pros, impressing us all. How much practice must have gone into such readiness!

Then came dances local and modern; speeches by several teachers, including me being asked to contribute; poetry, skits and jokes. Almost every grade had something to contribute to saying farewell to the graduating handful. The school director proclaimed that she had seldom seen so much success and potential in one of these classes, and expected even more great things from them in future. I deliberately gave my speech in English and one of them interpreted for me, and I hope that his ability was not lost on his listeners.

That one was also the best art student, some of his work, chiefly pencil portraits of some Game of Thrones TV characters, adorning one of the walls. Apparently, he is to be received in one of Tbilisi’s art academies with no entry exam necessary on the strength of these pieces; I can believe that this is true and asked him for a drawing for myself for later, which he promised. He might go far.

I’ve been at a number of these end-of-year festivities during my time co-teaching English in Svaneti’s villages, and they are always milestone times. Ushguli, Mestia, Etseri, Becho, since 2007… but this one from 2018 stands out, and not just because it’s the freshest in my mind. The genuine pride in the students, the warmth and high hopes that they will go on really successfully, all expressed openly, gave me, too, hope that it will all come true. They deserve a good future, having worked and studied hard for years to get to this point. Really, their adult lives are just beginning now, as they are released to find their way (not unaided, of course) in the big wide world of Tbilisi’s post-secondary educational options.

I hope that they can take the best of village life there with them, not let the worst of city life ruin or spoil them; discover what they want and need, and continue to make us all proud. And maybe, as I told them, some of them might even return and do something great for their home village, if they don’t end up running the country. Either case would be quite fitting. We will stay in touch, wait and listen.

Tony Hanmer has lived in Georgia since 1999, in Svaneti since 2007, and been a weekly writer for GT since early 2011. He runs the “Svaneti Renaissance” Facebook group, now with nearly 1900 members, at www.facebook.com/groups/SvanetiRenaissance/

He and his wife also run their own guest house in Etseri:

www.facebook.com/hanmer.house.svaneti

By Tony Hanmer