The Hidden Delights of the Nenskra Valley
Svaneti is a distinguished part of Georgia with unique nature, mountains, culture and traditions. In order to visit old towers, archeological and historical monuments, most tourists go to Mestia and Ushguli, but Svaneti has another distinguished part, oft unjustly overlooked.
On the road to Svaneti, as you cross the Sagergili Bridge, don't go straight on: take a left and head into Nenskra Valley and Chuberi.
Chuberi
Chuberi is 80 kilometers from Zugdidi, nestled in the Nenskra Valley. It is surrounded by the Caucasus ridge and is home to 10 villages on the mountain slopes, the Nenskra River flowing between. There are two origins for the name Chuberi in Svaneti. According to the first, "Chubur" means hazelnut in Megrelian (a Georgian dialect) and as there are many hazelnut trees here, the location was named accordingly. According to the second version, the mountain from where the Nenskra river flows is named Azavchiber. That is why the locals call the Nenskra river Chubrula and the area "Chuberi."
Today you will find 13 guesthouses functioning in Chuberi, including guesthouse "Nenskra" which was the first to host tourists. The hotel is run by 69-year-old Melor Tsindeliani together with his family.
Hotel “Nenskra” in Kvemo Marghi, Chuberi
To the question what is the one thing visitors should not miss in Chuberi, Melor tells us: "Georgians, and especially Chuberi residents, believe that a visitor is from God. This village was the most distinguished in the entire region. Although the Upper Svaneti villages have towers and good views, when people come down from there, they note that this place has better nature compared to other parts of Svaneti."
What else can you find in the Nenskra Valley?
- Tourist Route to Utviri pass
- Ltnari Lake
- Lamkhatoba Lake
- Tobuldari
- Caucasian Ibex zones
- Trout fishing places
- And, of course, the beautiful nature
Tobuldari, Lamkhatobi and Ltnari lakes are on the way to Utviri Pass. Tobuldari is 2300 m above sea level and you have to go another 5 km on foot to reach Ltnari Lake. Utviri Pass is located 2770 meters above sea level. Lamkhatobi Lake is much harder to reach, located at 3500 meters.
Before you go hiking to Nenskra Valley
Tourists use hiking routes to go to Nenskra. The transportation road goes to Tobuldari and it is complex, so you have to be lucky with a driver and appropriate car.
- You have a long way to go, so you have to go hiking early in the morning
- Have hiking equipment
- Do not forget about the appropriate shoes as weather often changes in the mountains
- Always have warm clothes and a raincoat with you
- It will be better if you have food with you, as there is nothing but berries in the alpine zone
If you are ready, you can start the journey with us.
The road to Tobuldari goes through the forest, with mountains on both sides and mixed forests on their slopes. Here everything has its own place: below the colorful flowers, then the wild nuts, on top deciduous trees and evergreen conifers. Along the way, you will also find naturally clear cold water coming out of the mountain. At the end of the forest there is a lowland - probably the only lowland you will find on the way. It is surrounded by mountains, with a view to a steep alpine zone in the north and forest-covered slopes on the other side. Here, you will find all the gradations of green and a wonderful place for camping.
Road to Utviri pass
If you continue your way to Tobuldari, you will soon understand that you have unique forests behind you. At the destination, you will see mountain flowers covered with grass, blackberry and a wooden hut. Locals call this hut "tent" which cannot be used for spending a night, but after covering 15 kilometers, you can rest there.
Such buildings are mainly used by shepherds, but we found German and English books there.
On the way to Utviri pass you will find a heart-shaped little lake. After July, this lake disappears and "sleeps" till summer. You have to go another 5 kilometers on foot from Tobuldari to reach Ltnari lake, but it is totally worth it.
Ltnari Lake
If you have decided to reach Lmakhatoba lake, we will tell you one story. Lamkha in Svan language means a lake to call bad weather. According to the legend, the lake was used in drought period. People used to throw a branch or stone in the lake, the weather used to become cloudy, and rain came down in the valley.
As you make your way to Utviri Pass, you will find signs left on stones, trees or large logs warning you that the road ahead is difficult.
Special marking for toursits
Members of the Transcaucasian Trail have been marking the way to the Utviri Pass for tourists. Will, from Britain, told us that his friends had recommended him to visit Georgia. He came here for the mountains and was surprised by the greenery and berries. For Dave, who came from America, Georgian culture, people and different foods represent a new life experience. He discovered Georgia through a small article on CNN three years ago and since then, hasn't stopped thinking about coming here. In addition, according to Megan, who is also from America, Utviri Pass is one of the most beautiful places to see in Georgia.
"I love Svaneti because it is huge, beautiful and diverse and I love Georgia, because people are kind, warm and hospitable. This way is sometimes hard to pass and we're trying to fix it so that more people will come and see this beautiful side of Georgia," she said.
We left our friends in the tents and made our way to the village of Tita. This place will especially attract those who love fish and fishing.
The village of Tita is ideal for those who love fish and fishing. In Tita, Gia Vibliani has a trout-fishing zone along with a family hotel. As he told as, those who do not want to catch fish make a wish and put “golden fish" back. He has been hosting visitors since 2008 and can accommodate 40 tourists and provide meals.
Gia Vibliani’s Cottages for tourists
Trout farm
"When I opened my hotel, tourism was not developed at all, but our valley has great potential. It is a wonderful valley with natural lakes, beauty, Nenskra valley. It is a fascinating place for tourists with its glaciers and wild goat zones. We do not have towers and museums, but we have nature, tranquility, peace," said Vibliani.
Locals offer hiking tours and horse-riding tours while the season is right! So hurry there, before it gets too cold.
Tobuldari
One myth from Chuberi as Bonus
Beautiful Svaneti is a region of myths and legends. Here, people still believe stories of ancestors and the most famous legend refers to the goddess of hunting- Dali. Svan people say that Dali loves chosen men and help them in hunting. The main condition is that if you tell someone about Dali, you will die. In Chuberi, we were told that a spotted tur, or wild goat (with white fur on forehead) enters in Dali’s shepherd zone, so hunters are forbidden to kill it.
If hunters do not obey this rule, they will be damned with wrath of Dali and law enforcement officers as tur is in the Red Book. Hunters tell this legend to their children so they learn how to respect nature and animals from childhood.
All myths and legends coexist with reality in Svaneti. While wandering in these fields you are ready to forget all laws, which put existence of goddesses and imps into questions. Fiction mixes with history and it is impossible to draw a borderline. There is nothing bad in this. The main thing is that until you breathe air, you are a part of the legend along with Chuberi residents, the river Nenskra and clouds floating on the slope.