XX & Counting

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The last few months have seen an interesting trio of 20th anniversaries which touch me directly. First was that of Prospero’s Books in Tbilisi, still the city’s best place for both books and coffee. It opened between my first visit to Georgia, summer of 1999, and my move here from Baku, in early December that same year. Being of the opinion that a community of any size with no bookshop isn’t a real place, I was delighted to find this all-important outlet for millions of words. It has only improved since then.

Next was my own arrival here to stay, December 1, 1999, about which I have also already written at some length. Svaneti called me to Georgia, not the other way around.

Finally, GEORGIA TODAY began in March 2000, the country’s best English language newspaper. This, too, was a vital thing for someone like me, a good source of news about Georgia, the Caucasus and beyond. I needed to know what was going on as so much was changing, and GT gave it to me.

My first letter to the paper was anonymous, in about early 2001, responding to an electrical cutoff in the city’s main children’s hospital. I called Telasi from the hospital, was answered by a drunk man, who hung up on me; called back and got no answer; and wrote my letter, not identifying myself for fear of reprisals in the dark, dangerous place that was the Georgia of then. The British Ambassador had me and a Chechen and Svan pair of friends, my co-workers, for lunch, and recognized me as the writer once we started talking about infrastructure in Tbilisi.

I also once wrote a letter of protest over the color photo of a murdered foreign man’s corpse displayed on the front page. I called the decision “barbaric,” knowing this would hurt but wanting to let my outrage show. This letter was printed too. Things improved.

Then, newly married and beginning to teach English in Mestia, I simply emailed GT with a link to the blog I was writing at the time and asking if they would be interested in regular content, especially about life in Svaneti. About a week later, the positive reply came; this was March 2011, so, 9 years ago. Since then I have not missed writing for a weekly issue, and never been stuck for material, either.

GT, I salute you and thank you! Reading, and then writing for, you has been a great pleasure over these years and decades! Here’s to XX years together, with L and even C still to come!

Tony Hanmer has lived in Georgia since 1999, in Svaneti since 2007, and been a weekly writer and photographer for GT since early 2011. He runs the “Svaneti Renaissance” Facebook group, now with nearly 2000 members, at www.facebook.com/groups/SvanetiRenaissance/

He and his wife also run their own guest house in Etseri: www.facebook.com/hanmer.house.svaneti

By Tony Hanmer