In Mtsvadi Veritas

Barbeque, or to be more specific, the Georgian version of it Mtsvadi, is one of the staples of famed Georgian cuisine, alongside Khachapuri and Khinkali. So it was only a matter of time until somebody put two and two together and set a Mtsvadi festival into motion. The wise folks at the Georgian Tourism Agency seem to have figured this simple math out, and as a result, I found myself embarking on a 4-hour journey from Tbilisi to Sairme, one of Georgia’s best-known resorts. It’s a particular kind of fame: as a resort, Sairme has been a popular destination for all of Georgia’s soviet past and counting. Its 6 different types of mineral water, of the same name, have been found to have a wide array of curing capabilities, mostly for stomach ailments. Sairme, together with Borjomi and Nabeghlavi, forms a holy trinity of Georgian mineral waters. However, fancy music festivals and entertainment gigs are a rarity here, so Sairme remains a resort chiefly for connoisseurs of beautiful, pastoral landscapes and a calming atmosphere. And those four hours that you’d need to get there from Tbilisi? Easily compensated by the beautiful places you’ll get to see on the way. The resort itself is in the middle of a forest, with a sprawling network of baths and wells at the entrance. Sairme is also a place you’d have to try very hard to get lost in, unlike Tbilisi and a plethora of other places in Georgia, here almost every wall and building is marked with one signpost or another. Particular care is spent upon explanation of the benefits of Sairme water and the rules for its consumption. And it’s all green! And there are hammocks everywhere! And it’s definitely one of the places in Georgia where riding a bicycle is very much encouraged and cherished. Oh, and if you happen to do sports, there are a couple of gyms around and a nice, multi-functional stadium.

But back to the tasty part: the Mtsvadi Festival was co-organized by Hotel Sairme, biggest hospitality provider in the resort. They boast an open restaurant where you can enjoy some of the tastiest meals you’re going to come across in Georgia. So, if for any reason you’d eschew the opportunity to gorge yourself on Mtsvadi, there are plenty of alternatives. The festival was in fact a contest over the best BBQ, with some of the most popular restaurants in Tbilisi as participants, among them Sakhli Madatovze, Tsiskvili Group, Begheli, Mtsvadiauri, Sami Saukune, Mais Bar and Restaurant, Kolkhuri sakhli, Sharbati and the restaurant of hotel Cron Palace. They traveled together with us and went straight to preparations on arrival. I’ll not lie if I say that when the smell of Mtsvadi, or shall we call it an aroma, weaved itself into the fresh air of Sairme, that one hour we had to wait till the tasting was one of the most pleasant, yet tantalizing, experiences in my gourmet adventures. And the judges? They had to taste so much of it that we were legit scared they wouldn’t survive. Though if any of them shared our concerns, they sure didn’t let it show. They dutifully chewed, gobbled and rolled their eyes and at the end, voiced their verdict. The overall consensus was that all participants did rather well, so much so that they apparently had to add an additional category. Of those that were announced, Sharbati Restaurant won for Best Serving, Tsiskvili group and Mtsvadiauri won Best Taste, Begheli for Original Serving, Sami Saukune for Delicious Delivery, Sakhli Madatovze for Special Taste, and Mais Bar and Restaurant took home the Grand Prix. All of this was followed by a massive dinner, where lots of fun was had until midnight. In the morning, we had an info tour reserved for Armenian tour operators who were attending the festival and were very pleased with the result. Considering the regional rivalry in the Caucasus over the Mtsvadi (or Shashlik, as the Russians call it), to hear such praise from Armenians was indeed quite a revelation and testament to the festival’s success. Later; tired, dizzy but very satisfied, we embarked on journey home, with newly acquired knowledge over this deceivingly simple, yet unbelievably delicious meal.

Inga Mumladze